tompkinslawncare

New Construction – the deck is stacked

Wed, 21 May 2025 13:38:14 GMT

Welcome to Tompkins Lawn Care!

With a different approach to lawn care, our process places focus on soil quality, plant health, and understanding how we got here. Knowing how we got here is the first step to making positive changes. It’s important to understand, that we humans are the variable. Climate conditions and weather patterns play a significant role but are not nearly as impactful as human influence regarding housing development and the landscapes therein.

The Evolution of Midwest Lawns

We all recognize the midwest, especially Iowa, to be a place where things grow well. While our fields are fertile, the average home lawn is uniquely different. Most housing developments in the corridor replace agricultural fields; however, by the time a new home’s lawn is installed, the conditions are much different than when they started. One of the first steps in “development” is to scrape off the topsoil, preventing it from being buried or mixed with subsoils or construction debris. The topsoil is typically piled off to the side, some of it is sold and hauled away and some of it is placed back, on-site, with final grading before sod is installed….more on that later.

Challenges in Modern Construction

Water, sewer, streets, and utilities are next. This infrastructure is dug, plowed, and laid over the land followed by a cover crop of hearty, native grasses as a cover crop to establish roots and to prevent erosion. Modern construction involves heavy equipment and motorized lifts to replace ladders or scaffolds. Houses are built quickly and the soil is heavily compacted at the surface while many areas below have not settled and will create all those holes and cracked sidewalks, sure to greet the homeowner in years three through fifteen.

The Reality of Sod Installation

With a building completed, the lawn is graded in advance of sod. Low areas are filled in and some topsoil is spread across the lawn to aid in grading. Sometimes, many inches of topsoil can be spread about but most times the added topsoil is at best, a thin, skim layer to help smooth the future lawn. The high spots are shaved down and the remaining vegetation is scraped off before sod is laid, usually when it’s hot and dry. The type of sod used locally is a blend of Kentucky Bluegrass. Kentucky Bluegrass is a cool-season turfgrass that typically does well in cool spring weather but suffers during our hot, dry summers. Adding to climate pressures are compacted, nearly sterile soils, and the absence of cultural practices and beneficial aftercare.

Viewed as an “instant lawn”, sod seldom receives the immediate care it needs. Typically, homeowners are surprised by a lawn’s decline following the first season and it’s important to understand why this happens. Sod is grown under ideal conditions to (quickly) produce a product to sell. Just like corn or beans, sod is grown in a field where there can be multiple feet of undisturbed topsoil. In addition to excellent soil, seedlings are heavily fertilized, irrigated, and cut with mowers at a frequency and height intended to promote good health, quickly bringing the plants to maturity. All of these “extras” follow the sod from the field to the lawn but, things are much different in this new home. Growing conditions went from the best to the worst, usually on a day when it’s 90 degrees, sunny and dry.

The Importance of Proactive Management

Most sodded lawns will “hang on” for the remainder of the first season, living off the remaining nutrients carried from the sod farm. Following the first winter, a sodded lawn will look much different, brown and lifeless. Most people associate the poor spring color with an excess of thatch, however, the poor color is due to the lack of new growth. Blades of grass are brown following dormancy, winter or summer. These (dead) blades of grass do not turn green again but are replaced by new shoots that grow from the protected root system. The plant needs energy to promote growth and with compromised soil, additional stimulation is needed from fertilizer. Without fertilizer to stimulate growth, new growth is absent and the declining turfgrass will thin, allowing weeds to fill in. Without competition from actively growing (spreading) turfgrass, weeds will spread quickly. A common issue in new lawns is the spread of tall fescue. Tall fescue (sometimes confused with crabgrass) is part of the “cover crop” that existed before the sod. Unless the site is sterilized, killing existing vegetation before the sod, hearty, deep-rooted grasses like tall fescue will blow through declining, malnourished KBG sod. This situation can be seen in almost every neighborhood and quickly identifies which lawns did not receive proper care early on.

Successful management is only achieved when being proactive. Nature has a plan and purpose, we need to pay attention and recognize what’s missing. I think we all get caught up in modern conveniences and while we have access to almost anything with Prime delivery, nature requires a bit of forethought. We can’t expect nature to succeed in unnatural environments nor can we expect to quickly pull back what has already unraveled. If we pay attention to the things we already know, we can do well to prevent many problems and expensive remedies. Please let me know if you have any questions or if you would like to discuss this further.

Protect Our Pollinators

Wed, 21 May 2025 13:37:02 GMT

A Commitment to Environmental Responsibility

At Tompkins Lawn Care, we take the concepts of “environmental responsibility” and “sustainability” to heart, not just as buzzwords but as guiding principles that drive our everyday actions. Many businesses use these terms in their marketing, but we believe in practicing what we preach, even when it means going the extra mile.

One crucial aspect of our commitment to sustainability is protecting our invaluable pollinators, especially the bees. Bees play a remarkable role in our world, being responsible for pollinating nearly 85% of crops directly consumed by humans. It’s a fragile and intricate relationship, with dozens of species of solitary bees having evolved to pollinate specific plants. They coexist in perfect harmony with these plants throughout their lifespans. Without these bees’ unwavering dedication to particular plant species, these plants would cease to reproduce and might even face extinction.

However, it’s no secret that bee populations, especially honeybees, have been declining worldwide. This alarming trend is due to various factors, including diseases, parasites, widespread pesticide use, and the destruction of their natural habitats and food sources. As more bee species dwindle, we stand to lose more than just their existence; we risk the extinction of certain plant species and face severe consequences in the global food chain.

While we understand that the actions of one company may not single-handedly solve this global problem, we firmly believe in taking steps to make a difference right here in our community. One significant change we are implementing throughout our service programs is the use of insecticides specifically developed to minimize their impact on bees and their vital role as pollinators.

In the realm of lawn care, insecticides are commonly used to control annual white grubs. However, our approach to lawn care focuses on integrated pest management and recognizes that a healthy and vigorous lawn is its best defense against various threats. This includes taking proactive steps to prevent grub infestations rather than treating them after they’ve already become a problem.

Preventative Grub Control is an essential part of our lawn care strategy. This treatment is specifically designed to ward off potential grub activity, using insecticides as a preventative measure. We’re committed to using the safest possible forms of insecticides for this purpose. The insecticide we employ has minimal impact on beneficial arthropods and boasts extremely low toxicity to non-target animals, including birds, fish, and, most importantly, bees.

Our grub control treatments come with the lowest application rates, and there are no re-entry restrictions following their application. We understand that our commitment to this responsibility may come at a higher price, but it’s important to recognize why we choose these practices. We believe it’s a small step in the right direction towards safeguarding the environment and supporting these vital pollinators in our ecosystem. Join us in our mission to protect our pollinators, one lawn at a time.

Fungal Lawn Diseases

Wed, 21 May 2025 13:34:45 GMT

Understanding and Preventing Fungal Lawn Diseases

A lush, green lawn is a source of pride for homeowners. However, even with the best intentions and maintenance routines, fungal diseases can sometimes strike, causing unsightly and potentially damaging issues. At Tompkins Lawn Care, we’re committed to helping you understand, prevent, and address fungal diseases in your lawn.

Prevention through Best Practices

The most effective defense against fungal diseases is a proactive approach rooted in best management practices. By adhering to these key principles, you can significantly reduce the risk of fungal issues:

Fertilization: Properly and consistently fertilizing your lawn ensures it remains healthy and less susceptible to diseases. Our team specializes in creating customized fertilization plans that promote the well-being of your turfgrass.
Core Aeration: Annual core aeration is a vital cultural practice that helps prevent fungal diseases. By allowing air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil more effectively, we create an environment that discourages disease development.
Watering: Correct watering is essential. Both overwatering and underwatering can create conditions conducive to fungal growth. Our experts can guide you on the right watering regimen for your lawn.
Mowing: Avoid mowing your grass too short, as this can stress the lawn and make it more susceptible to diseases. Mow when temperatures are cool and never when the turfgrass shows stress.

Fungicide Applications

While proper lawn management is the primary defense, there may be instances where it’s not enough to thwart a fungal outbreak. In such cases, early intervention is key. We recommend early fungicide applications as a preventative measure in the early spring, before diseases flare up. This proactive approach is more cost-effective and offers higher efficacy compared to curative treatments.

Curative treatments become necessary when the disease is already visible in your lawn as spots, blotches, or rings of dead turfgrass. While curative treatments can help slow the spread, they are less likely to completely eliminate the disease and can be more expensive.

Core Aeration: Your First Line of Defense

Annual core aeration stands out as one of the most effective preventive measures against fungal diseases. It helps improve soil health, reduce thatch buildup, and allow better water and nutrient absorption by your grass. We strongly recommend making core aeration a regular part of your lawn care routine.

Remember that mowing too short and improper watering practices can also contribute to disease vulnerability. Additionally, weather fluctuations can impact disease occurrence, and these variables are sometimes beyond our control. Contact us if you require more information tailored to your specific location.

At Tompkins Lawn Care, we’re dedicated to maintaining the health and beauty of your lawn. Reach out to us for expert guidance and comprehensive solutions to keep fungal diseases at bay.

Nourishing Your Lawn

Wed, 21 May 2025 08:20:08 GMT

Nourishing Your Lawn to New Heights

When you gaze upon your lawn, you may notice those occasional bare spots or thin areas that draw your attention. It’s only natural; homeowners have a keen eye for their lawns and a desire to make them flourish. While these intentions are often well-meant, sometimes our attempts to improve our lawns can inadvertently create more problems, incur added expenses, consume our time, and increase the need for chemical treatments. This is where the age-old debate of “seed it or feed it” comes into play.

Remember the Fundamental Principles

The basics of lawn management are rooted in elementary concepts that we learn as children. Think back to planting sunflower seeds in tiny dixie cups – it’s a testament to the wonder of nature. A dry seed, placed in fertile soil with the right amount of water and sunlight, blossoms into life. While seeds are indeed miraculous and pivotal for establishing new lawns, sowing seeds to address specific issues requires thoughtfulness, an understanding of your plant’s life cycle, the growing conditions, and the climate – both past and future.

In the Midwest, the management of turfgrass is heavily influenced by the ever-changing seasons. The foundation lies in soil conditions, but the climate adds its unique variables. Our growing season consists of two primary parts – spring and fall, each separated by two dormant seasons – summer and winter. Summer, while not always inducing dormancy, presents challenges due to poor soil quality in many new home lawns and the use of Kentucky Bluegrass. In contrast, winter’s dormancy can stretch for up to four months, and during this period, lawns face cycles of freeze and thaw, as well as potential damage from snow and ice. This extended period of vulnerability, combined with the effects of snow removal, ice melters, snow piles, and even foot traffic from pets and children, leaves your lawn looking worse for wear.

The Aftermath of Winter Dormancy

As winter’s grip begins to thaw, and spring emerges on the horizon, a sense of renewal fills the air. However, the reality is often less rosy – snow melt reveals matted, brown grass, with bare spots, scrapes, scratches, snow mold, and remnants of critters who found shelter beneath the snow. While most homeowners’ immediate reaction is to rush outside and start seeding, hoping that within 10 to 14 days, all their issues will magically vanish, reality has other plans.

The problem with this approach is that most people simply toss seeds on the surface without considering germination. A significant portion of the seeds will either wash away, get devoured by birds, or simply rot. Some may invest extra effort, properly preparing the soil for seed planting by mixing it with soil, smoothing it out, and even mulching over the seeds for protection. However, even if these seeds germinate, it’s just the first step of a multifaceted process that requires fertilizers and other components to help these seedlings grow into established turfgrass. Unfortunately, one can’t control climate conditions and the growth cycles of competing weeds, which can lead to more problems, often resulting in complete failure.

Spring: Mother Nature’s Time for Renewal

Spring is Mother Nature’s season for renewal, and her primary goal is to grow anything and everything to protect the soil from erosion. Consequently, soil is laden with weed seeds, and exposed, fertile soil will grow weeds in the first half of the season, even under the best conditions. Annual weeds, such as crabgrass and foxtail, typically emerge during this time. These invaders can be especially challenging to manage, and pre-emergent herbicides that target them also prevent the germination of planted grass seeds. As a result, it’s difficult to establish grass seed effectively while dealing with the pressure from these annual weeds.

The Better Way: Feed Instead of Seed

So, what’s the alternative? At Tompkins Lawn Care, we suggest the approach of “feed it” instead of “seed it.” Fertilizing your lawn stimulates growth in existing plants within days, compared to several weeks required for seedlings to grow. Fertilizer can be a more practical and efficient choice for homeowners and professionals. With a well-fertilized, aerated, and well-managed lawn, turfgrass thickens before the threat of crabgrass emerges, reducing the need for pre-emergence herbicides. This approach is more cost-effective and minimizes the environmental impact, requiring fewer chemical inputs.

Fertilization allows for a well-established lawn with deeper roots and more resistance to pests and diseases. While the rapid growth you observe in the spring may lead you to believe that seeding is the key to a lush lawn, the reality is that it’s the “feed” that lays the foundation for a healthy, vibrant, and thriving lawn.

Fertilizer 101

Wed, 21 May 2025 08:17:16 GMT

Fertilizer 101: Nourishing Your Lawn

Fertilizers are natural or artificial substances containing essential chemical elements that enhance plant growth and productivity. They improve the natural fertility of soil or replace nutrients depleted by previous crops. These chemical compounds play a pivotal role in plant nutrition, with the primary elements being nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Secondary elements include sulfur, magnesium, and calcium.

Modern Fertilizers: Sources and Components

Modern fertilizers are sourced from various materials. Nitrogen fertilizers, for instance, are derived from synthetic ammonia, which can be in gaseous form or dissolved in water. They can also be converted into salts like ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, and ammonium phosphate. Additionally, packinghouse waste, treated garbage, sewage, and manure serve as common sources of nitrogen.

Tompkins Lawn Care understands that maintaining top-quality grass requires excellent fertilizers. We invest in high-grade fertilizers, custom blending them to precise specifications, ensuring that they meet the highest quality standards.

Organic vs. Synthetic: Two Faces of Fertilizers

Fertilizers can be categorized into two main groups: organic and synthetic. Organic fertilizers are derived from biosolids, whereas synthetic fertilizers are created using chemical compounds to produce synthetic ammonia, which is later converted into salts.

Organic fertilizers can be seen as more of a soil amendment than a fertilizer due to their lower nitrogen content, about 5% compared to the 25% to 32% found in common synthetic fertilizers. While organic fertilizers provide valuable organic material, they may not supply sufficient nitrogen to stimulate growth, especially in depleted, inorganic soils commonly found in new construction areas.

Synthetic fertilizers offer ample nitrogen but may not benefit the soil immediately. Organic material accumulation in the soil occurs much more slowly when using synthetic fertilizers alone. Aeration and proper cutting techniques, such as mulching grass clippings, are the best ways to enhance organic material in the soil.

Best of Both Worlds: Our Hybrid Approach

Our approach combines the strengths of both organic and synthetic fertilizers. By blending slow-release synthetic ammonia fertilizer with insoluble organic fertilizer, we create a product that minimizes environmental impact while promoting soil health. This hybrid approach offers the best of both worlds, working together effectively to achieve vibrant and healthy turfgrass.

Weed Control: Keeping Your Lawn Beautiful and Weed-Free

Effective weed control begins with maintaining thick, robust turfgrass. When your lawn loses vigor and weakens, weeds find the perfect opportunity to thrive. Once established, they can rapidly spread, often requiring chemical intervention to address the infestation.

At Tompkins Lawn Care, we take a proactive approach to weed control. Instead of repeatedly applying pesticides to combat returning weeds, we aim to address the root of the issue. We understand that failing turfgrass allows weeds to flourish, so our focus is on improving your lawn’s overall health and vitality.

Our strategy emphasizes cultural practices, including proper fertilization, annual aeration to alleviate compacted soil, and effective mowing techniques. These practices yield superior results without the environmental impact of continuous pesticide use. We believe in sustainable and environmentally responsible solutions to keep your lawn vibrant and weed-free.

Core Aeration

Wed, 21 May 2025 08:14:02 GMT

Enhance Your Lawn with Core Aeration

At Tompkins Lawn Care, we believe in going beneath the surface to ensure the health and vitality of your lawn. That’s where core aeration comes into play, an essential service that can prevent thatch accumulation and enrich your soil, resulting in a greener, lusher lawn.

What Is Thatch and Why Is It a Problem?

Thatch is a layer of dead grass, roots, and other organic matter that accumulates between the soil and the green vegetation of your lawn. While some thatch is natural and even beneficial, excessive thatch can lead to a host of problems. It impedes water penetration, making it difficult for your lawn to absorb the moisture it needs. Thatch also hinders the effectiveness of fertilizers and pesticides, preventing these essential treatments from reaching the soil and the grassroots. Left unchecked, it can choke your lawn’s growth and overall health.

The Core Aeration Solution

Core aeration is your lawn’s best friend in the fight against thatch accumulation. This process involves extracting small plugs or cores of soil from your lawn, creating openings in the thatch layer. These plugs of soil rest on the surface where soil organisms, such as microbes, can break it down. Over time, this transformation of thatch into beneficial organic material is essentially composting in your lawn. The resulting organic material enriches your soil and provides valuable nutrients that your grass can use for healthy growth.

The Right Timing for Core Aeration

Most lawns can benefit from annual core aeration. If you have a heavily used lawn or your grass is growing in heavy clay or subsoil conditions, you might want to consider aeration twice a year. For golf fairways, sports turf, and municipal properties subjected to extensive use, core aeration may be necessary three to five times per year, depending on the level of traffic.

Plan Ahead for a Seamless Service

At Tompkins Lawn Care, we want to ensure that your core aeration experience is smooth and trouble-free. To do that, it’s crucial that we have all the information we need to service your property effectively. If your lawn area contains underground wires, pipes, or fixtures buried less than 4 inches beneath the surface, please notify us in advance. This way, we can make the necessary arrangements and take note of any potential obstructions.

Core aeration is a standard part of our service program, typically conducted from early September through October and into November. However, additional planning and scheduling may be required if you have an irrigation system or an underground, wired pet containment system. These components must be flagged before we can provide core aeration service to avoid any disruption.

Irrigation systems, in particular, should be flagged before they are winterized. If you plan to have your irrigation system heads flagged in preparation for winterization, remember to order this service in advance. Once the lines are blown out for the season, it will be too late, and we won’t be able to perform the aeration service. To expedite the process, we recommend cutting the grass before flagging your system, giving us additional time to schedule and complete the work before your lawn needs its next trim. When your system is flagged, simply notify us, and we’ll be there promptly, typically before your grass requires cutting again.

With our core aeration service, your lawn will benefit from improved soil quality and a stronger, healthier foundation for lush growth. Contact us today to schedule your core aeration and take your lawn to the next level.

Lawn Watering

Wed, 21 May 2025 08:06:27 GMT

While many homeowners focus on the appearance of their lawns, it’s essential to recognize that the well-being of your turfgrass begins from the ground up, particularly when it comes to watering.

The Importance of Timely Watering

As the summer season approaches, the subsoil starts to dry out, which can spell trouble for your lawn. This is especially crucial for newer lawns, those less than 20 years established, as they are more vulnerable to the effects of dehydration.

Waiting for visible signs of stress in your turfgrass before watering is often too late. Once depressions are left in the grass as you walk across your lawn, and the blades don’t spring back, it’s a clear indication that your lawn is thirsty. If you wait until discoloration occurs, it’s a signal that your lawn is already in distress.

Preventative Measures for a Healthy Lawn

Preventing problems is always more effective and cost-efficient than reacting to them. Maintaining the health and vigor of your lawn throughout the season is paramount. When the subsoil dries out completely, it takes a significant amount of water to revive dormant turfgrass, resulting in overly saturated topsoil. This excess water displaces oxygen, causing the plants to suffocate. Moreover, these conditions often coincide with high summer temperatures, making your lawn more susceptible to fungal diseases. Treating these issues may require expensive fungicide applications and even re-seeding.

Timing and Best Practices

When it comes to watering, timing and methodology matter. Here are some best practices to follow:

Morning Watering: Watering in the morning allows the turfgrass, leaves, and thatch to dry quickly near the surface. Conversely, irrigating in the evening can lead to prolonged surface wetness, providing the ideal conditions for the rapid spread of fungal diseases.
Proactive Approach: Be proactive and begin watering before your lawn exhibits signs of stress. This approach is less costly and time-consuming than reacting to issues.
Deep Watering: Water deeply to saturate the soil, approximately every three days, allowing the topsoil to dry between watering cycles. This promotes deeper root growth, making your grass more resilient to drought.
Microclimate Consideration: Be mindful of microclimates on your property. South-facing areas may require more water than those on the north side. Radiant and reflective heat from structures can also affect watering needs.
Hard Surfaces and Turfgrass Ratio: Areas with a higher ratio of hard surfaces (e.g., concrete patios, sidewalks) to lawn will dry out quickly and need extra attention.

Preventative Measures for a Beautiful Lawn

We firmly believe that most lawn problems are preventable without the need for extraordinary effort or chemical treatments. Prevention is the key. By understanding that a modern home lawn is a manipulated environment, and by following best watering practices, you can ensure a healthy and lush lawn that you can be proud of.

At Tompkins Lawn Care, we’re committed to providing you with the expertise and guidance you need to maintain a thriving lawn. Let us help you keep your lawn healthy and resilient through our comprehensive watering services.

Remember, success in lawn care requires a little planning and patience. And, unlike Amazon Prime, Mother Nature operates on her own schedule, rewarding us with the beauty of a well-nurtured lawn.

Mowing

Wed, 21 May 2025 08:00:07 GMT

Mowing Advice for a Perfect Lawn

It might surprise you to learn that one of the most common culprits behind lawn problems in the Midwest isn’t insects, fungal diseases, or unpredictable weather – it’s your trusty lawn mower. Despite being perceived as a benign landscaping activity, mowing can result in significant lawn damage if not approached with the right knowledge and care.

While we do not provide mowing services, we believe that understanding the art of mowing is crucial for homeowners who tackle the task themselves or hire professionals. Mowing can be a valuable tool, but its success depends on various factors.

Early Spring: A Critical Mowing Opportunity

In the early spring, mowing can play a crucial role in your lawn’s recovery after winter dormancy. The key here is to start mowing before it seems like your lawn needs it. Trimming the tips of the grass blades serves as a controlled injury that prompts your lawn to respond by producing new shoots. This new growth helps to thicken the grass, especially when combined with a well-planned fertilization program and core aeration. It’s a holistic approach that can improve your turfgrass and significantly reduce the need for pesticides to combat weeds and diseases.

The One-Third Rule: Don’t Push Your Lawn Too Far

One of the fundamental rules of mowing is the “One-Third Rule.” It’s simple but effective: never remove more than one-third of the total leaf surface in one mowing session. For example, if your grass is maintained at three inches, don’t let it grow beyond four inches between mowings. Going against this rule can cause injury, leading to stress and root system damage.

So, if your lawn has gotten too tall, it’s better to gradually raise the mower, allowing your grass to recover over two or three mowings. This approach minimizes stress and helps maintain a healthy root system.

Timing Is Everything: Be Weather-Wise

Mowing isn’t just about the frequency; it’s also about timing. Avoid mowing when the grass is wet, as it can cause it to lay flat and become thinner. Mowing during extremely hot and dry conditions can lead to injuries that may trigger fungal diseases.

Keep a close eye on climate conditions. The early transition into hot and dry weather can stress your turfgrass, especially Kentucky Bluegrass. Proceed with caution during this critical period, and avoid mowing in the heat of the day to minimize the risk of weeds and fungal diseases that can linger throughout the summer.

The Right Height for Your Lawn

The ideal mowing height for Kentucky Bluegrass is around 3 inches, except during the summer months when it’s beneficial to keep your turfgrass slightly taller, around 3.5 to 4 inches. Adjust the height for the first mowing in spring to stimulate growth and clean up debris from winter. Sharpening your mower blades regularly and checking tire pressure or deck leveling can make a significant difference.

Mowing may seem like a straightforward task, but there is a right way and a wrong way to go about it. At Tompkins Lawn Care, we hope this information empowers you to maintain your lawn with the knowledge and care it deserves. While we may not provide mowing services anymore, we’re always here to offer insights and assistance to help you achieve the beautiful, healthy lawn you desire.

Don’t make a mountain out of a molehill……the cause is logical and so is the control.

Wed, 21 May 2025 07:58:18 GMT

Moles are difficult to control…. I’m sure you know by now. With any nuisance pest it is important to first eliminate their food source. Ants in the kitchen… clean up crumbs, mice in the garage… put the dog food in a sealed bin, adult children that will not leave the house, put a lock on the refrigerator…. This method holds true to moles, however, the biggest misconception in lawn care is that insecticides influence mole populations. Insecticide use would only be warranted when there are more than 5-10 grub worms near the surface per square foot, causing threat to turfgrass health. Other mammals, like skunks, opossums, and racoons will often peel back the sod to forage on grubs and worms along the edges of timber or another natural habitat. Grub damage to turfgrass is rare and usually, it’s noticed and treated before conditions require extensive repair. Severe damage occurs when people ignore the early signs of stress or how the turf feels different, spongier under foot.

In my experience, earthworms are the most common food source for moles and their activity is often relative to climate conditions. Moles will be found in areas of southern exposure in the spring, even late winter. Here, the soil is warmer and while other areas of soil may still be frozen, worms and insects can be found in these microclimates. As the soil warms elsewhere, mole activity will spread as they search over widespread areas looking for food. As the summer heat sets in, mole activity will condense and they will favor shaded areas, along shaded edges of tree lines, under shade trees and mulched areas on the North side of structures. These areas are cooler and stay moist longer, the perfect habitat for worms. Usually, you will notice straight runs (tunnels) where the moles travel from habitat to feeding ground (even through sunny/dry soil). Place your trap in the straightest part of this main tunnel.

I have also noticed a relationship between nice, managed lawns and moles. Two neighbors can have similar layouts; only one lawn is kept nice with fertilizer and aeration while the other is thin, weedy, and unkept. Moles will be present in one over the other, it’s usually the “nice” lawn that gets all the attention. The thick, healthy turfgrass is insulation. The soil is protected from fluctuations in climate conditions and worms are plentiful. Worms are beneficial to the soil, alleviating compaction and increasing organic material. Unfortunately, this marriage also brings predators as the other half of nature’s balance. Trapping is still the most effective best practice for controlling moles in the home lawn.

Trapping is relatively easy but will require your attention, it is not a “set it and forget it” situation. Moles are active in the morning, and they move through areas where food is plentiful. Like dolphins feeding on sardines, moles will zig and zag in a random pattern as they feed until the whole area appears “boiled up”. It is important to identify the “feeding grounds” so that you can locate the runs or tunnels that lead to them as the best place to set traps. Feeding tunnels / runs are random, it is almost impossible to successfully trap in the chaos. Locate the main run, leading from a den or protected area to popular feeding area and set your trap here. The main run offers a singular place where moles pass, two to four times per day. Set your trap in the straightest portion of this run for best results. If correctly placed, the trap will likely be tripped twice per day and is why monitoring is important. Sometimes the traps will be tripped without success, don’t be discouraged. If the trap was tripped it means you have the right spot. Additionally, not having a mole harpooned at the end of a trap does not mean you failed. An injured mole will usually bleed out. You may have lost the battle, but the war remains. Reset the trap and try again.

New (home)Owner Experience

Wed, 21 May 2025 07:57:01 GMT

***This is a common occurrence. I’ve not heard the proverbial skipping needle, but I have witnessed spousal arguments, and the rest is factual as perceived during my career.

So, you just purchased a new home and you are realizing the American dream. You are filled with pride and happiness, how rewarding it will be to keep a nice lawn that surrounds your new house…. your home. Thoughts may drift to a late afternoon of mowing, quiet seclusion that gets you out of the house and away from sorting laundry or doing the dishes. Maybe you visualize a neighborhood BBQ. A gathering of friends, maybe volleyball nets are set, the grill is hot and everyone raves about how nice YOUR lawn is. Life is good, stand proud, have a cold beverage and soak it all in…….

(audio of a needle skipping across a record….) (wife screams frantically) …. Honey….What’s wrong with the lawn? It’s the end of April! Why is the lawn still brown? It was green last fall, but now it looks dead. I think it’s dead. The neighbor’s lawn is green, ours looks like crap! We have a graduation party in May and the lawn is dead…. fix it!

This same scenario plays out time and again for one reason, infertile soil. A lawn is no better than the soil below it and regardless of the turfgrass type or if the lawn is from sod or seed, it needs food to survive. Most lawns are sodded and although there is some instant gratification, these lawns will regress unless a fertilization program is implemented from the start. Grown for sale, sod needs to be produced quickly for the business to be profitable. Sod is grown under ideal conditions with excellent soil, its irrigated and is heavily fertilized. Although the conditions during production are ideal, the installation site is not. New home soils are infertile if not altogether sterile. The soil is compacted by construction equipment and its summer and usually hotter than H-E-double hockey sticks. Given all of this, sod is resilient and with proper watering, it will usually take root. With the producer’s fertilizer still feeding, the sod will usually hold on through that fall season. The surprise comes after the first winter. With its food source depleted and without additional nutrients to stimulate growth, the lawn will lay lifeless and brown, appearing dead. These lawns show stark contrast when compared to other lawns the same age but having received additional fertilization.

The situation above is quite common. Every spring we receive frantic phone calls from people who claim their lawn died over winter. As serious as a heart attack, they want the lawn replaced, reseeded or resodded. I’m happy to offer them an explanation for what they are experiencing. Saving considerable money on the anticipated “replacement”, we start an aggressive fertilization program and everything falls into place. Huge gains are realized within the first two months and with recommended cultural practices like core aeration and proper cutting, the turfgrass will continue to improve as time moves on. NEW LAWNS REQUIRE ATTENTION OR THEY FAIL!

Voles

Wed, 21 May 2025 07:40:26 GMT

The prolonged snow cover has caused damage to many lawns with snow mold and vole damage, widespread throughout the area.

Voles are small mammals like field mice. Deep snow, drifts, and piles provide a protected habitat for these pests throughout the winter. The longer weather conditions allow habitat and food, the more pronounced damage will be.

With the snow melted, vole damage presents as tunnels, tracks or trails that zig and zag throughout the affected area. Sometimes, these areas are confined to small areas and other times damage can be widespread. When the snow melts away the damage can be alarming but, in most cases, the damage is superficial. A little hand raking and some patience is usually all that is required for repair.

Voles chew the grass off at the crown to leave a trail that looks depressed in relation to the surrounding grass. Voles seldom disturb the soil, so repair efforts are usually minimal in already healthy turfgrass. Repair begins with raking through the area to remove the dead grass, thatch and droppings that may accumulate throughout the “trail system”. As soil warms, new growth will emerge from the intact root system below and these trails will fill in with grass as before. Additional fertilizing and watering will aid in recovery of severe damage.

Unlike moles, vole trails are usually above the soil surface and in the thatch layer despite the appearance of being depressed. These depressions will fill in with thatch that accumulates and will serve to protect the base of the new shoots. Being too eager and adding soil is likely to create bumps and unevenness that will be worse in the end. Be patient for the best outcome and things will be as they were before.

https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/vole-damage-to-lawns

extensionpubs.unl.edu/publication/g887/2011/pdf/view/g887-2011.pdf

Recover From Drought Conditions

Wed, 21 May 2025 07:38:04 GMT

Be patient, reviving your lawn after a drought can take some time and effort, but it is possible to bring it back. Here are some steps you can take to re-establish a lawn before pressure from next year’s weeds.

Water Deeply: Water your lawn deeply but infrequently, wetting the soil to a depth of 5”, past the floor of the root system.
Fertilize: Use a slow-release fertilizer to encourage new shoot growth and recovery.
Aerate: Aerating your lawn will direct water, nutrients, and oxygen directly to the roots, causing them to grow, speeding up recovery time.
Reseed Bare Patches: Small spots (fist size) will fill in quickly if practicing the steps above. Larger areas, greater than 12” x 12”, void of any green grass will need re-seeded. These areas will fill in with weeds next year and require chemical treatments to remedy.
Mow Correctly: With cooler temperatures, mowing slightly shorter can stimulate new growth but then maintain at 3” until the last cutting of the season.
Be Patient: The most important step is time and patience. Don’t waste money on seed for small imperfections. For established, healthy lawns prior to drought conditions, they often recover from fertilizer and aeration faster than new seed establishes.

Timing is everything. Early September is the target for fall seeding but there is still some time if you act quickly. Poor soil conditions, new construction, South exposures, and grass near and along concrete are areas likely to need additional help with seeding. If these areas have remained generally the same despite water/rain, the grass plants are dead.

Spring Weeds

Wed, 21 May 2025 07:34:43 GMT

Authored in the 2024 Spring season following a significant drought in 2023.

Kevin’s thoughts on chemicals for “weed control.”

Lawns are still recovering from last year’s drought damage; some lawns have thinned out and some have dead spots that remain. The cool weather this spring has stalled recovery and thinning turfgrass will see pressure from weeds for the first half of the season. Because of the weed seeds present in all soils, weeds will be ongoing until the turfgrass has fully recovered and filled in. While a dandelion may be easy to identify with its yellow flower, it does not suggest a continuing trend. We will clean things up at the appropriate time but reacting too soon will have us using more chemicals with little “control” over the problem. I have learned, Nature needs time to work things out. If we respect and understand the process, we become more successful (and less frustrated) managers. It pays to be patient.

Weeds will emerge one by one throughout this early spring (rain makes this worse) and I feel that attempts at ongoing mitigation with pesticides are irresponsible when we could otherwise wait for a better time to spray. It is best to wait until we can control more weeds with a single treatment vs multiple, repeated treatments. Another misconception regarding “spring weeds” is that the first application, a pre-emergent herbicide, will control broadleaf weeds like dandelions. The first treatment of most lawn programs is a “pre-emergent” herbicide, intended to prevent crabgrass and other summer annuals emerging from seed each year. A pre-emergent will have no influence on dandelions or other perennial broadleaf weeds. The best defense against weeds is to prevent stress by watering when required and being mindful of mowing. I’m not suggesting that everyone water lawns, but it’s important to understand that “real time” decisions will almost always spill over into the next season…. or longer. The best management practice in any season is one that eliminates stress.

We do our best to find balance while recognizing our impact on the environment. This starts with understanding nature and the fact we could use every chemical available, but these natural things will continue…. until we reach a point where we have gone too far and nothing can continue. There are many people who sit at their window “on weed patrol” but fail to provide the basic maintenance items that will help to prevent the weeds they complain about. Three basic examples would be watering, mowing and simply recognizing when turfgrass is under stress. Overall, success should be measured on a long term scale while accepting the continual ebb and flow of short-term, occasional nuisances.

Watering – it’s complicated

Wed, 21 May 2025 07:32:01 GMT

Like Goldilocks, Kentucky Bluegrass Lawns Need Things Just Right! Not too hot, not too cold, not too dry, not too wet.

The easiest way to describe proper watering is to visualize the “layers” that make up turfgrass and soil; leaves/blades, crown, thatch, stolon, rhizome, root system, topsoil, lower topsoil (6-8″ depth), and subsoil. Focus must be placed to all and not simply to “wet” the surface. Attempts to protect the water bill with frequent, short cycles of watering will almost always cause more harm than good and often it’s better to let the lawn go dormant than to water incorrectly.

To establish deeply rooted turfgrass, irrigate heavily so that water moves past the root system into the lower topsoil. Soil dries from the top down so this drives the roots deeper as the plant’s roots seek moisture deeper in the soil. Keeping the topsoil constantly moist prevents root growth and the turfgrass will become weak and vulnerable. Shallow rooted turfgrass happens when watering is too frequent. Shallow rooted turfgrass will be vulnerable to all types of pressure, particularly drought/heat stress as a trigger to fungal disease. It is best to water turfgrass heavily (deep) but infrequently, allowing leaves and thatch to dry between watering cycles, approximately every third day.

The next variable is the subsoil. Subsoil moisture is much harder to manage because the conditions must be recognized far in advance. Adding difficulty, subsoil moisture levels change so much due to soil type, topography, and seasonal changes. In the spring, the subsoil is usually moist, but moisture levels vary from year to year depending on the climate conditions experienced in the previous year, especially fall and winter. The subsoil helps to protect the topsoil from below, when subsoils are moist there is insulation protecting the topsoil. However, when the subsoil is dry it will be near impossible for water to accumulate in porous soil, like sand, when enduring 90-degree temperatures for more than a couple of days. When speaking of sand, subsoil moisture provides important insulation in terms of temperature. Dry sand gets extremely hot and is the reason why drought stress to sandy soil presents as a significant and pronounced burn to turfgrass, the root system literally gets scorched from this excessive heat. Unless one understands all these variables, this condition is almost always associated with a chemical injury.

Lawns become problematic in the summer season when the subsoil begins to dry. In new lawns (less than 20 years established) it is extremely important to water the turfgrass before it shows stress. Watering should begin in a supplemental fashion as soon as the summer weather patterns begin. If you wait for the turfgrass to show stress before irrigating, it’s already too late! A simple indication that it’s time to begin watering is when depressions in the turfgrass are left when walking across the lawn. If the grass blades do not spring back up but stay compressed, it’s time to water. If you wait for discoloration, it’s too late.

It is extremely important to maintain health and vigor throughout the season, once problems are realized it is often too late for easy correction. Once the subsoil dries it takes so much more water to bring life back to dormant turfgrass. The saturated soil displaces oxygen, and the plants will suffocate. These issues usually correspond with high temperatures in the summer season and fungal disease is almost always the outcome, causing additional injury and requiring expensive fungicide applications and possibly re-seeding to cure. Timing is also important and can either help of hurt turfgrass. Watering should be done in the morning, not at night. Watering in the morning will allow the turfgrass, leaves and thatch, to dry quickly near the surface. Conversely, irrigation in the evening will prevent surface drying and the prolonged wetness coupled with warm summer nights will allow fungal diseases to bloom and spread quickly.

The best practice for watering is to be proactive, begin irrigating before you think you need to. If you are reacting to problems, it will be more costly and take more time to resolve issues. Water heavily to saturate the soil approximately every three days, allowing the topsoil to dry between watering cycles. This will drive the roots deeper into the soil, making the plant stronger and more drought tolerant. Conversely, frequent, short periods of watering will cause shallow roots and compounding problems. Water in the early morning so the surface can dry, preventing additional pressure from fungal disease. Be mindful of microclimates present in your property, recognizing that southern exposures will need water whereas the north side may not. Radiant and reflective heat from structures can be significant and require additional attention. Be mindful of other hard surfaces, especially the ratio of lawn to concrete. Small areas of turfgrass surrounded by concrete (parkways, sidewalks, patios, etc.) will come under stress quickly and will require additional attention. In my experience, most problems in the landscape are preventable without extraordinary effort or chemical/pesticide treatments; an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Use common sense and appreciate the fact that the modern home lawn is not a natural environment, it’s a harsh, manipulated environment where we humans expect natural things to happen by some miracle.

Question & Answer

Wed, 21 May 2025 07:30:52 GMT

Weed Control Question/answer

Q. What is this tall clumpy weed that is spreading?

A.) It’s tall fescue, A hearty turfgrass that is widely used in seed mixes for vegetative cover in waterways, roadways and in housing developments prior to new home construction.

Tall fescue is a deep rooted, hearty turfgrass that thrives in poor soil and hot weather. Bluegrass (local sod for sale) is a cool season grass that does poorly in inorganic soil without irrigation. When Bluegrass struggles in heat and/or goes dormant, the underlying tall fescue will push through. If the site is not fertilized, tall fescue will spread. When the bluegrass growth slows or dormancy begins with warmer and dryer weather in summer, tall fescue will become more apparent because there is no competition from the weaker plant. Because tall fescue does well in these conditions it will continue to spread as the bluegrass declines.

As a turfgrass, there really isn’t a good solution for eradication once it has been introduced and allowed to spread. Selective control requires many follow ups and has varying results, ineffective when considering the environmental impact and expense. If this scenario goes unchecked, it may be necessary to kill it off and start over or simply accept the diversity.

Aeration Question/answer

Q. Why should I aerate?

A.) The benefits from core aeration are multi-layered and it is the best singular thing you can do to protect your turfgrass from the many uncontrolled variables that put the lawn at risk. The largest, singular variable we cannot control is the climate. And no matter what time and money has been spent to improve turfgrass, climate conditions will always be the final factor that determines the level of success. A common problem that affects bluegrass sod is pressure from fungal diseases and the best natural defense against this is aeration. In addition are the more obvious benefits of core aeration such as increased oxygen and nutrients to the root system, promoting deeper root development, making the turf stronger, controlling thatch by composting the soil plugs and building more organics in the soil.

Mowing Question/Answer

Q.) My lawn is being fertilized too, why does John’s lawn look better?

A.) Mowing plays a huge role in a successful lawn management program. Time and money spent to fertilize and improve a site can be quickly erased by mowing it incorrectly. Mowing will stimulate growth in turfgrass and if done properly, mowing helps to create a thicker, denser stand of grass. Conversely, improper mowing can cause damage to turfgrass. If you think your mower might be too big, it is. Even on flat surfaces, every movement, start, stop, turn, etc. causes damage and this increases exponentially when on any incline. Mowing should be done often enough so as not to remove more than one-third of the total leaf surface; this is known as the “one third rule”. Removing more than one-third of the leaf’s surface causes injury. As a result, the turfgrass will come under stress and will likely be infected with a fungal disease. When combined with sterile soil these issues cause significant problems. Healthy, growing turfgrass can regrow or “heal” from damage or disease while lawns that are under stress will not have the energy to regenerate and recover. When shaded areas are mowed at the same frequency as sunny areas, the stress from mowing is often too much. Grass growing in shade doesn’t have energy to stimulate new growth or recovery. It becomes death by one thousand cuts. Overseeding will grow initially but will result in the same fate. It is better to recognize that these areas do not need to be cut in the first place and keep off what doesn’t need to be cut.

Weed Control Question/Answer

Q.) I am against chemicals but these dandelions! How can I enjoy my property and still sleep at night?

A.) You can be environmentally responsible and yet still enjoy a property that is inviting and not as…colorful. In turfgrass management, competing turfgrass is the “defense”. Fertilizers are natural elements that cause turfgrass to grow and to improve density. Dense turfgrass stays weed free through competition, significantly reducing or eliminating the need for herbicides.

Weeds thrive in the same conditions that cause turfgrass to decline so you can see how a bad problem gets worse. Healthy turfgrass provides a consistent ground cover that prevents the establishment of weeds. This can be achieved with the use of natural elements within fertilizer, annual aeration and mowing. If a weed seed blows in from the neighbor or from across town, it can be spot sprayed as one, singular plant before the need arises to blanket the entire area with pesticides.

I want a nice lawn but…?

Q.) How can I have a manicured lawn without harming the environment?

A.) You can eat your cake and have it too. This is where practical experience and knowledge of the natural process come into play. Providing nutrients, natural elements found in our fertilizers, we promote turfgrass to do exactly what it wants to do…become a groundcover. Once this occurs the reliance upon chemical pesticides is reduced significantly and you have a beautiful and functional landscape. All soil contains weed seeds that when given warmth, water and sun, will grow. This is nature’s protection against erosion and a natural way to keep waterways clean from silt and pollutants.

Fertilizer gets a bad rap, but remember, there is a big difference between the responsible use within the green industry and agricultural use of fertilizers and pesticides. Although some of the active ingredients are the same, the use is entirely different. In agriculture, specifically row crops, fertilizers are applied directly to bare soil with no vegetative filter, and everything flows downhill to the lowest water source. Additionally, hog confinements and other Meat Factories are huge contributors to the nitrate problem and rising cancer rates in Iowa. Written in the Des Moines Register September 15th, 2017 “Iowa has about 5,000 more pig confinements and cattle lots across the state than originally believed……. That’s nearly 50 percent more animal feeding operations than the state initially inventoried.”. At that time, a 1000 head hog confinement could go unregulated and did not need to comply with state manure licensure. It is situations like these that cause nitrate problems not lawn fertilizers.

Don’t Fool Around

Utilizing practical experience, paying attention to and understanding how nature works is the basis of successful Integrated Pest Management or IPM. When working with nature rather than against nature, you will notice, a gentle nudge is all that is required to change the course. Understanding the cause of current conditions is the first step in formulating a strategy to implement improvement. For instance, when turfgrass fades out in a shaded location, many people put down more grass seed, repeatedly. Instead, recognize the reason the grass failed. Turfgrass does not grow in shade so why assume that new seed is going to offer a different fate than the stronger, mature plant that died? Knowing the grass died because it is too shady, look for ways to change the overall conditions that caused the problem. Look up, prune the trees causing the shade. If that does not work, think about landscape plantings suited to the location instead of turfgrass. Options abound, however, do not expect a different outcome unless you change the variable that created the problem.

Can I just order weed control?

Q.) We only want weed control, is that possible?

A.) Successful weed control begins with fertilizer and building thicker turfgrass. We can spray the weeds, and they will die but unless we improve the turfgrass, the weeds will come right back. This creates a situation where the continuous use of pesticides is required. Alternatively, if the turfgrass is improved, using natural elements in our fertilizer, core aeration and proper mowing techniques, we can increase the vigor in the turfgrass, and the competition prevents weeds without having to blanket the site with pesticides time and time again.

Tompkins Lawn Care vs. Company X

Wed, 21 May 2025 07:25:56 GMT

When comparing service businesses, it’s nearly impossible to compare apples to apples. While retail goods are the exact same from one vendor to another, a “service business” is as unique and as ever changing as the owner and its staff. Aside from work ethics and experience, are the raw materials used by each company and their ability to manipulate application rates. Cost is the driving force with many consumers and the lawn care industry has learned how best to manipulate people. As a result, many get a watered-down service that ignores the basic principles of nature. Chemical quick fixes will be the reaction to a never-ending cycle of misdirected effort of weed control and disease management.

Low costs always come with a sacrifice. Some are realized at the time and others take a while to be noticed but the result is always the same, you get what you pay for. The buying power of large retailers may equate to lower prices, but a mobile service business is not a retailer and the only way to lower prices is to cut something out. Most people would contest paying full price for a pizza missing two slices, but it happens in lawn care all the time. While you may notice 20% of your pizza missing, you wouldn’t notice 20% of the fertilizer withheld from an application. In fact, most don’t realize anything until over time, the turfgrass fades out. The declining turfgrass requires more and more chemicals for weed control due to decline and lack of competition but company X will be proud to say they kill weeds each time, so you better keep the service going. Often, people continue being duped for multiple seasons before they realize they would have been better spending nothing at all than choosing the cheapest service. This plays out repeatedly and when the customer learns their lesson and cancels, the same company will move on to another with a price too good to be true, a discount, a promotion, anything to get them under contract. I’ve witnessed this throughout my career and it’s only getting worse as the American middle class must do more with less.

Rather than competing with the companies racing to the bottom, we prefer a different path. We learned a long time ago that Mother Nature cannot be bargained with. If you want to change things, you need to put in the work and you need to be consistent. That said, it simply costs more to correct problems than to hide problems. Our customers understand these concepts, many after experiencing their version of “company X”.

Don’t seed it, FEED it…

Wed, 21 May 2025 07:16:31 GMT

Thin spots in the home lawn are easily identified and garner the attention of well-intentioned homeowners who simply do what they think is right, many times mirroring a neighbor’s activity or continuing bad habits passed down from others. While many missteps are the result of good intentions, often, attempts to make things better will actually cause additional problems, added expense, lost time and increased use of chemical pesticides.

REMEMBER THE BASICS

The basics of turfgrass management are generally simple concepts. In fact, most of us learn these lessons in elementary school. Remember planting sunflower seeds in dixie cups? We learn early what a miracle nature is, a dry seed placed into fertile soil and with the right amount of water and sunlight and life is renewed. While seeds are miracles and incredibly important for establishing turfgrass, seeding to correct problems should be met with much consideration and with an understanding of the plant, its growth cycle, growing conditions and the climate; past, present, and future.

In the Midwest, turfgrass management is affected by our ever-changing seasons. Soil conditions are the foundation to dictate the overall level of difficulty, but our climate is the next significant variable. The growing season is divided into four parts, practically two growing seasons (spring and fall) separated by two dormant seasons (summer and winter). While summer may not always cause dormancy, the poor soil quality widespread across 99% of new home lawns, plus the use of Kentucky Bluegrass will cause at least some difficulty. While a period of significant summer conditions may be as little as two or three weeks, winter dormancy is for a period of up to five months. During this period, lawns are subject to cycles of freeze and thaw and ice and snow. The longer the period of dormancy the more damage will be noticed. Add to this, foot traffic from pets and children playing, damage from snow removal and ice melters, snow piles, drifts and other conditions may not overtly cause significant damage but due to the prolonged period, to turfgrass, it’s a death by one thousand cuts.

BE PATIENT

As the winter season ends, spring fever infects us all and we can’t wait for warmer weather. With HGTV on repeat, we have grand ideas of outdoor improvements and perhaps plans to host the neighborhood barbeque. The excitement of possibility is often snuffed out when the snow melts away, leaving matted down, brown grass with bare spots, scrapes, scratches, snow mold and/or remnants of critters who took temporary residence under piles of snow. Overwhelmingly, the first reaction of homeowners is to rush out and apply seed. Thinking that in just 10 – 14 days all their problems will be resolved, so it’s back to the garage for a cold drink and prideful reflection on a job well done.

It’s easy to understand how this action is born of good intention. The reality is, most people simply throw seed on the surface, without a chance of germination. A great majority of grass seed on the surface will either wash away, be eaten by birds or will simply rot. Some may apply some effort and prepare the soil with seed properly planted, mixed with soil, raked smooth and may even mulch over the seed to offer some protection from drying out. The reality is, even if the seed germinates, it’s only the first step to a series of steps required (including fertilizers) to encourage the seedling to grow into established turfgrass. While preparation/seeding can be controlled, climate conditions and growth cycles of competing weeds cannot and it’s these conditions that create additional problems, often complete failure.

MOTHER NATURE, ON A MISSION

Spring is the season for renewal and Mother Nature has one singular goal; to grow anything and everything with effort to protect the soil from erosion. To this end, soil is impregnated with weed seeds and by design, any exposed, fertile soil will grow weeds in the first half of the season. Even under the best circumstances and with much effort to do everything right, there will be additional pressure from weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides used to prevent annual weeds like crabgrass and foxtail cannot be used because they will also prevent germination of planted grass seed. It is difficult to establish grass seed well enough by the time there is pressure from annual weeds. Crabgrass is too evasive and if allowed to start, crabgrass will quickly choke out and overtake stands of new seedlings and even existing, mature turfgrass. This not only causes additional complications and expense of added pesticide use, but will often require additional seeding in the fall, when it’s most successful.

DON’T BE “THAT GUY”

A better management practice, requiring less effort, less expense and less chemical inputs, would be to fertilize or “feed” the lawn. Fertilizer will stimulate growth in an existing plant within days while it takes many weeks for seedlings to grow. I often see people seeding thin areas or small spots in the early spring and while this may give them exercise, it’s not as effective as they think. Much seed is sold to those who think their effort and expense is the sole reason the lawn “filled in”. Usually, the lawn simply looks better because the soil has warmed enough to signal growth. Despite a general thinning and minor damage resulting from months of dormancy, the root system below is much less affected, new shoots will spread as the soil warms and the lawn will thicken; without seed. Be patient for this process and refrain from disturbing the soil, encouraging weeds that will require additional herbicides. If the lawn is fertilized, aerated and otherwise well managed, the turfgrass will thicken before crabgrass emerges and as such, less pre-emergence herbicide is required as well.

Another reason why we suggest to feed it instead of seed it; the summer season. Even if a spring seeding is successful, after all the expense, hard work and arguably more chemicals, the grass seedlings are at best teenagers. The grass may look mature and take abuse from mowing and other traffic but what’s missing is an established root system. The extreme heat and dryness of summer is usually enough to kill or severely affect the seed, often requiring additional overseeding in the fall season. It’s one reason why “that guy” always seeding his lawn is always seeding his lawn.

We recommend patience… Remember also, companies simply need to sell things. Association is marketing 101 and with commercials of seed flying from spreaders, usually over well established, thick green lawns, they want you to think it’s the seed when really, it’s the FEED.